Experiencing Malate, Manila’s Bohemian District

Malate lives up to its image as Manila’s bohemian district. Or so I thought. One late afternoon, I ventured out to stroll on its two-lane alleys. Life seems the same as any fast-paced streets of the metro, but wait til darkness comes and excitement would come out from its daytime slumber. 

I checked in at Malate Pensionne, a romantic accommodation that offers guests that old-world feel. I got the Eco-Air Room, which is airconditioned but doesn’t have its own comfort room and shower so I have to take the communal amenities. Rooms do not also have wifi connectivity, though. 

 Below are photos of the hotel and of the room that I got. 

A short walk away is Café Adriatico where a friend and I had coffee. The tsokolate, pan de sal and white cheese, and chef’s salad really satiate the palate. The cozy, masculine interior offers a very inviting ambiance—especially for intimate moments.

It is my habit to attend the anticipated mass every Saturday so I decided to go to nearby Malate Church. But having to that place only once, and that was two years ago, I can’t remember which road to take. Thankfully, Google map comes in handy to make things easier. The Baroque-style church is considered one of the oldest in the  country. The façade was scarred by time; its adobe walls can tell. It was actually damaged many times over, by war, fire, and earthquake. Still, it continues to stand proudly to this day despite the towering structures around it.

The church is dedicated to the Nuestra Sra. De Remedios (Our Lady of Remedy). Inside the church, at the altar, gloriously stands the statue brought by the Augustinian friars from the Andalucia in 1624. Our Lady is the patroness of childbirth. I wonder how many couples in dire want of a child have come to pay homage to the Lady, praying, pleading ceaselessly to grant their wish.

I stepped out of the Church to the catch Malate’s life at night. It was just 7pm and wind coming from Manila Bay offers a refreshing respite after an afternoon of sweltering heat. Clichés begin to converge. Office workers enjoy a leisurely stroll after a busy day at work. Lovers hold each other’s hands while sitting on the bench. They don’t want to let go. But will they ever quarrel later on? Then, there are husbands and wives and their kids admiring the dancing fountain, spewing water amidst the changing hue. Behind the fountain I noticed a team of hilot, traditional massage therapists, provide healing and relief to otherwise wornout laborers tired of the day’s back-breaking toil.

The Malate Fountain with all the romance transpiring in it makes the ideal location for a prenup photoshoot. Oh, yes, the fountain in its most glorious state makes a perfect backdrop. Planning a wedding calls for a lot of work, doesn’t it? And then, you have this. The would-be groom and bride dressing themselves at their best, even wearing uncomfortable clothes while forcing themselves to smile as if everything is all ready. Aren’t happily-ever-afters a commodity nowadays? Passersby would catch glimpse of them. I wonder how many single ladies have seen them, wondering when would the right man come? And what about guys pondering, “will I ever give my love the wedding she so desires?” Oh, I can only imagine!

It was already 8 pm so I decided to head back to my hotel. Malate is fully awake by this time. Restaurants are teeming with diners, night clubs and lounges open up but patrons don’t arrive until 10, I guess? Meanwhile, I relished looking around, the vibrant lights, and the buzz that made Malate Manila’s most colorful district.

The River Was Calling—Experience Palina Greenbelt Ecopark

“The river is constantly turning and bending and you never know where it's going to go and where you'll wind up. Following the bend in the river and staying on your own path means that you are on the right track. Don't let anyone deter you from that.” Profound thoughts from Eartha Kitt and her words were stamped well in my mind—reminding me of the gentle rush of the river that leads to the open sea.

Mabaay Island, the Hidden Gem of Ivisan, Capiz

“Come join us swim!” Mataji invited me with that excited look in her face, as if it’s my first time to swim. In fact, it’s been over a year I haven’t plunged myself in the water.

“No, I’m good,” I replied. I contented myself in taking pictures of the clear water, the fine, white sand, and the azure sky. Mabaay, you’re such a beauty!

The small island of Mabaay, hidden behind two islets that lie just a swim away (or even a short walk when it is low tide), is in the municipality of Ivisan. From Roxas City, it is a 15 minute jeepney ride to the town proper. It is not a boring ride, though. The short trip beholds a view of cerulean mountains from afar. The statue of Jesus at the Shrine of the Sacred Heart of Jesus lingers on, assuring any traveler of divine guidance as one searches for a little piece of paradise here on earth.

Tell the driver to drop you off at the jeepney terminal heading to Basiao. The first trip usually starts at 8 am. Take some patience with you if you plan to ride on a public utility vehicle because it could take 30 to 45 minutes to leave, not until the jeepney is jampacked with old ladies heading back home after shopping for the freshest produce or fishermen satisfied after their morning sale of last night’s harvest from the sea. If you want to hasten your trip, you can charter a tricycle, which costs 200-250 pesos for a one-way ride. Transact nicely and wisely with the driver, then you’ll hear him tell you about his life story. You may either laugh at it or simply keep quiet if you’re having enough. It is another 30 to 40 minutes to Basiao Beach. Tall trees would give way to expansive rice fields and then hills so full of life that grow into mountains—these are the views to behold. You know you’ve reached Basiao when the road becomes uphill and then you see a relaxing view of the sea lined by cream-colored sand.

Stop either at RBM or LA beach resorts, where boat operators standby along the shore. A boat ride to and from Mabaay Island usually costs P600 pesos and can sit 10 passengers. It is just a 5-minute ride away. Tough waves were out of sight when we made our trip but the still water offers a clear and resplendent view of the massifs of the nearby town of Sapian and of Batan in Aklan.

Mabaay is a small island. Just like the nearby islets, it boasts of solid rock formations, scarred by strong winds and tough waves. It stands in a carpet of white sand surrounded by crystal clear water. It is here on the sandbar where boats could dock and visitors rest. Be careful with the rocky ground, which are either slippery and pointed. The lure of the water is too enticing to resist—so, come on! Give yourself a dip. While a plethora of marine life abounds, including corals, fish and other sea creatures, lamentably, garbage scatter freely everywhere. This is something that the local officials and the community should act upon. More so, tourists must be wise enough to pick their own trashes before they go or the best they could do is just bring themselves with them—no food, just a bottle of water. Then leave all by themselves, too, without taking anything from the island.

Mabaay is simply perfect in its ruggedness. No cottages, no residents. Perhaps, she’d love to welcome some guests every now and then, but most days, let her be on her own.