Nipa, Tuba, and the Prewar Distilling Industry of Capiz

Nipa palm grove around 1950s

Long before the coming of the Spaniards, nipa wine was already an export product of the natives of the Philippines. Extract from the sap of the nipa palm (Nypa fruticans) called tuba was available in many parts of the islands, including the present-day Capiz, where a large portion of its future capital city and the pueblo of Panay used to be swampland. In fact, the native Filipinos had many types of alcoholic drinks to enjoy. A variety of the tuba is the one extracted from the coconut sap. From rice came the tapuy and from sugarcane the basi was made.

Spanish conquistador Miguel de Loarca noted that the natives “draw a great quantity of wine from the palm-trees.”  The taste was “sweet and good” and the wine was used in “making great quantities of brandy, excellent vinegar and delicious honey.”

Antonio de Morga, a high ranking colonial official in the early 17th century, also recorded that the indios enjoyed "wine made from the tops of coco and nipa palm of which there is a great abundance. They are grown and tended like vineyards, although without so much toil and labor. Drawing the tuba they distilled it, using for alembics using their own little furnace and utensils, to a greater less strength and it becomes a brandy. This is drunk throughout the islands."

Morga detailed the medicinal benefits of the tuba, especially for the stomach. Food historian Felice Sta. Maria further explained that when mixed with an infusion of tobacco leaves,  the tuba is a potent cure for a wounded cock.   With its sweet and good taste, nipa lovers claimed that tuba (sap) from nipa is superior in both taste and sock than coconut’s. The Spaniards, though, rate the tuba less potent that the rice wine. French physician and writer Jean Mallat observed that too much indulgence of tuba caused jaundice among the natives of Negros.

In 1860, Queen Isabella II opened Iloilo port to worldwide trade and this spurred the agricultural and industrial growth in Panay and the neighboring island of Negros. The Culasi port in Capiz town (now Roxas City), which used to serve only as an arsenal to Spanish galleons when the seas get rough, was transformed into a transloading port for inter-island trade.

An ad material of the Destileria Ayala, which indicates that they have distilleries in Capiz (present day Roxas City) and Panay towns. Image from Filipinas Heritage Library

Some 600 kilometers away, in the Spanish city of Manila, a Creole woman, imperious in bearing and resolute in spirit had her eyes set southwards to expand her family’s already vast fortune. At a young age, Margarita Roxas endured the abuses of the peninsulares who governed the islands. Her father, Don Domingo Roxas, was incarcerated by the Spanish authorities twice over. Liberal and enlightened, he advocated for the rights of the natives. The Spaniards accused him of plotting against Spain. He eventually died in prison shortly after Margarita personally obtained for Domingo the pardon from the queen. With Don Domingo’s death, Margarita set out to further expand her inherited wealth. In 1844, she married her father’s business partner, the Spaniard Antonio Ayala who was 15 years her junior.

On the foundations of her father's business, Margarita diversified into real estate, mining, and alcohol production, acquiring hectares upon hectares of swamplands in Candaba, Pampanga and Calatagan, Batangas. In 1850, she also purchased lands in Capiz and sent her grand-nephew, Antonio Roxas (her uncle’s great grandson) to start the nipa palm business. Doña Margarita herself made trips to Capiz, riding a goleta (schooner), which smoothly navigated through the swamps and rivers in Capiz. In 1865, she established wine distilleries in Capiz and Panay. She personally supervised her capataz (field foreman) in the harvesting of nipa alcohol which became the basis of Ginebra Ayala.

All in all, 10 distilleries were established in the province that processed nipa wine and aguardiente (beverage from sugarcane) for export. One of these distilleries was vividly described by Capisnon writer Jose Bolante: “The two-storey distillery building was built on an ideal place by the bank of the Panay River for easy conveyance of raw materials and finished products. The building typical of a Spanish architecture in that area was an imposing building of red bricks and square corral rocks. It was surrounded with deep marshland, and a stone walk connected the building to what is now the modern slaughterhouse area in Luna Novicio Street of Roxas City.”

At the start of the American regime, it was recorded that nipa products are among the country's top produce. American civil servant J.P. Sanger reports that nipa was grown in 29 provinces, with every part of the nipa put to best use: leaves and stalks are used in the construction of houses while the prized tuba was distilled into alcohol. Pampanga grew the most number of nipa in the country, where 7,195 hectares dedicated into nipa plantations. Nevertheless, Capiz was the country's top producer of tuba. According to a 1905 statistics, the Visayan province's production reached 39,877,314 liters, followed by Bulacan and Pampanga. Panay Island was only second to Luzon as the country's top tuba producing island.

The native Capisnons called the distillery as binohan (from the Spanish  vino, wine). The finished bi-products were transported either by land or water,  the wine placed in a tapayan or tadyao and damajuana and transported by animals on land or by conducciones on water. The success of the distilleries in Capiz had significant impact to the local economy and society, especially the creation of the illustrado class since many nipa plantation owners profited from this industry. However, prevalent was the exploitation of labor and forcing the tillers of the land to concentrate on the cultivation of nipa palms instead of staples, like rice and corn.

Alas, the province’s nipa wine industry suffered from the insular government’s tax schemes. By 1914, the Ayala’s interests in the province shut down. One by one, the distilleries shut down.

References

Ronald A. Amigo (1996). The Nipa Wine Distillery of Capiz: Preliminary Study. Proceedings of the 6th Conference on West Visayan History and Culture.UP Visayas; Jose Bolante (1992). Capiz in Search of Identity; Clarita T. Nolasco (1970, September-December). “The Creoles in Spanish Philippines.” Far Eastern University Journal, 14 (1-2), 47;  J.P. Sanger, et al. (1905). Census of the Philippine Islands volume 4: Agricultural, Social and Industrial Statistics. Washington, DC: United States Bureau of Census; Felice P. Sta. Maria (2006). The Governor-General's Kitchen: Philippine Culinary Vignettes and Period Recipes (1521-1935). Anvil.

Rynek: Wroclaw’s Historic Market Square

I have never seen a public square so beautiful, so picturesque, so vibrant as Rynek. Life transpires here. You see people dancing, singing, playing, painting, eating, or simply sitting on a bench with a gelato at hand, wondering, marvelling, witnessing the beauty of life. For the entire week that I stayed in Wroclaw, I did not miss a day without passing by at the Old Town Square. I could spend an hour or so just gawking at the Ratusz (Old Town Hall) while admiring its picture-perfect structure and intricate details. For an old soul like me, this is heaven! 

A Short History of the Rynek

Considered as one of largest market squares in Europe, second only to Krakow’s, Rynek is also where the two largest city halls in Poland is found. The Town Square is surrounded by buildings of different styles. An urban ensemble, it has two diagonally contiguous areas - the Salt Market and the square in front of St. Elisabeth's Church. The Magdeburg law passed in the early years of the rule of Polish Duke Henry “the Bearded” ensured the establishment of the market and town’s patricians later built houses around. Tram lines were later built, which were connected to the square in the 19th century. What started as a horse-drawn system was replaced by the electric system in the 1890s. World War II wrought havoc to the market square. Careful restoration work in the second half of the 20th century guaranteed the restoration of these buildings.

The heart of Rynek is the Ratusz (Old Town Hall), a historic and cultural attraction that dates back to the 13th century. The Ratusz’s impressive image reflects Wroclaw’s 15th century fortunes. As the city’s commercial and administrative building, it was only fitting for the Ratusz to showcase Wroclaw’s Renaissance glory. Sitting handsomely outside the Ratusz is the statue of Alexander Fredro, one of Poland's most renowned literary figures. 

Experience the Rynek

The Market Square in Wroclaw has everything for everyone. It is the heart of Wroclaw’s Old Town and attracts locals and tourists alike, thanks to its unlimited shopping, dining and entertainment options. But let’s not forget it is also a priceless cultural treasure with its history spanning hundreds of years from the medieval period to the present. With colourful, centuries-old buildings, no visit to Wroclaw is complete without experiencing Rynek!

During the daytime, the place teems with tourists eager to capture what’s going around—its beautiful structures and the life that gets more and more exciting as dusk settles. In the evening, the Rynek is transformed into a bustling entertainment hotspot with restaurants, cafes and clubs welcoming everyone who  yearns for some good food and great time.

The Rynek is a spectacle comes by only when you visit Wroclaw. Just look for somewhere to sit down and let life happen right before your eyes. No need to spend so much! The old buildings are enough to fill your mind with inspiration. 

One summer dusk in the old Market Square, the golden sunset rays kissing the storied walls of the centuries-old buildings leave a romantic feel. Crowd begin to flock this place. 

Tourists from other parts of Poland and Europe emerge in the Market Square. I saw very few Asians loitering around. 

Life thrives in the afternoon. Many simply stroll and enjoy the relaxing vibe of the place. 

The statue of Aleksander Fredro was originally from Lviv in Ukraine. When the city's Polish inhabitants returned to Wroclaw, they brought with them this statue, which ended at the heart of the Market Square. 

The Old Town Hall's east elevation where the famous clock is hung. 

Bibili ka ba ng Bibingka? A Short History of the Bibingka

A bibingka stall on a Sunday market in Cuartero, Capiz.

A tour of the Sunday market presents you a line of make-shift stalls on sidewalks where the perennial Filipino favorite, the bibingka, is sold.  Despite the abundance of foreign pastries that flooded the Filipino table, bibingka and other rice-based kakanin (goodies) are still preferred by the locals. In fact, special occasions call for the bibingka as a staple, especially during All Saints’ Day and Christmas. Rice being the food for the gods in the pre-Spanish society has inspired the culinary genius of the Filipinos and  rice cakes now come in various kinds.

According to E. Arsenio Manuel, the word “bi” is Chinese for rice, thus, bibingka, biko (sticky rice cake), bijon (rice noodles) and bilo-bilo (glutinous balls). The Spanish classified the preparation of the bibingka as a pudding made of glutinous rice flour or ordinary rice made into a wet paste and, later, eggs.  Coconut milk or water is also added. Bibingka also strikes a semblance to the Indian desert bebinca, although rice is not an ingredient and it is baked every time a layer of pudding is added. What makes the the bibingka  and bebinca similar is the way they are cooked: both requires heat over and beneath while baking.

Every province or community in the Philippines has its version of the bibingka. The famous Balasan bibingka in Northern Panay Island, also sold in Jaro, Iloilo, is famous for its soft texture, creamy flavour and generous coconut meat. The usual ones sold on Sunday markets in other towns in the island are close to this minus the velvety feel. In Binakayan, Cavite, the bibingka balinghoy (cassava) is a favorite. According to Michaela Fenix, it is similar to bibingkang malagkit (glutenous rice) on a first glance, but tasting it reveals the nata de coco, kaong, and langka  (jackfruit) stuffed inside. In Negros Oriental, bibingka kabog (millet) is cooked, while in Malolos, Bulacan, bibinkang monggo (mong beans) is proffered to visitors.

A bibingka mixture poured on cake tin moulds, ready for baking on the oven. 

A batch of newly baked bibingka. 

The bibingka was not spared from further foreign influences. The Spanish, for example, topped the bibingka with white sugar, white cheese and butter and sprinkled it with Edam cheese. The Chinese, meanwhile, introduced the red egg on this Filipino staple.

The bibingka is also a Christmastime favorite sold with the puto bumbong and salabat (turmeric tea) outside the church to warm the faithful after the misa de gallo (midnight mass). It also reaches the tables on holiday gatherings. The December 1940 article of the Philippines Magazine listed bibingka as one of the main noche buena fares. "The housewives cook the suman, bibingka, cuchinta, and the puto (all native pastries) and prepare the lechon (suckling pig to be roasted on Christmas day), which is the main delicacy..."

An enterprising local wanting to open a kakanin business should never miss the bibingka on its menu. In a May 1916 article of the Filipino publication Patnubayan ng Bayan , the locals are encouraged to be bold and enterprising enough to open their own businesses. A restaurant business was cited as a feasible example and the bibingka as among the Filipino foods that the locals could be proud, which could complete with foreign offerings, like pies and cakes.

"Sa ganang akala namain, kung tayong mga Pilipino ay magbubukas ng ganyan ding uri ng mga tindahan sa nangangabanggit na mga puok at ng mga kakaning Pilipino na gaya bagaa ng bibingka, kalamay, puto-bungbong, palitaw espasol,ginatan suman, ibp. at magkaroon din naman ng mga chaa, cape, chokolate, taho at ibp. sa isang paraang malinis at di kahihiyang pasukan ng kahi't sinomang maselang, ay inaasanahan naming pakikinabangan din naman ng di kawasa. At sa ganitong paraan ay di pa mapapasa dayuhan ang ating salapi."

References:

Michaela Fenix (2014). Country Cooking: Philippine Regional Cuisines. Anvil; Isang hanap-buhay na dapat samantalahin. Patnubay ng Bayan, Taon II, Bilang 20. May 1915; E. Arsenio Manuel (1948). Chinese Elements in Tagalog Language. Filipiniana Publications;  Pilar N. Ravelo (December 1940). Xmas without Santa Claus. Philippines Magazine, volume 1, no. 1; Felice Prudente Sta. Maria (2006). The Governor-General’s Kitchen: Philippine Culinary Vignettes and Period Recipes: 1521-1935. Anvil.

The Royal Palace of Wroclaw: A Baron’s Mansion Turned King’s Palace

Once in our lives we turn on the TV or turn a page of our favourite book to find it so enchanting that we could only dream that one day we could see that place! Then we wake up one morning to realize that that dream has already come true. Never in our wildest imagination did we realize that it could actually happen. The Royal Palace in Wroclaw is one of those places that I only read about but one cold afternoon, I found myself standing right in front of its gates and, moments later, I was already exploring its Baroque hallways.

A Short History of Wroclaw, Poland

Until 1740, the mineral-rich province of Silesia was part of the Habsburg dominions. For centuries, this dynasty had provided rulers to Spain, Austria, and the Holy Roman Empire. However, when Emperor Charles VI realized that he could not have any male heir, he issued the Pragmatic Sanction that allowed her eldest daughter, Maria Theresa, to inherit the throne. Shortly before he died, the Great Powers refused to acknowledge her as ruler and Prussia’s King Frederick II marched and conquered Silesia. It remained under the Hohenzollerns until after 1918, when it became part of Poland.

From Mansion to Palace

The Royal Palace of Wroclaw (then called Breslau) was formerly called Spaetgen’s Palace, named after Heinrich Gottfried von Spätgen, chancellor of Bishop Francis Louis of Neuburg.  In 1717 Spätgen acquired the property, which was a modest baroque mansion back then. After his death in 1750, King Frederick II bought the mansion, making Breslau as a royal residence city alongside Berlin and Königsberg (present-day Kaliningrad). Succeeding kings extended the property, changing its design and character to suit their tastes and the fashions of the era.  By the turn of the 19th century, the palace already extended from Wolności Square to Kazimierza Wielkiego Street.

With the downfall of the Hohenzollerns, the palace was donated to the local government of Breslau, which reserved the use of the palace for exhibition purposes. On September 20, 1926, the Palace Museum (Schlossmuseum) was opened with an exhibition dedicated glory days of Frederick II the Great on the right side of the south wing. Also showcased were glass and pottery as well as iron casts, which Silesia is known for. Upstairs, the interiors from the baroque, rococo and classicistic periods were restored and the rooms paintings and sculptures from the Albrecht Säbisch collection also filled the palace rooms.

The palace was heavily damaged at the end of World War II. Only Spätgen’s Palace with the north wings and a fragment of the south wing were preserve; the rest of the palace was demolished in the 1960s. by this time, Breslau was renamed Wroclaw. From 1963 until 1999, the palace was home of the Archaeological Museum and, until 2004, Ethnographic Museum.  

From Palace to History Museum

The Royal Palace of Wroclaw has been converted into two museums: the Historical Museum and the Museum of Medallic Art. The restored palace chambers—including the baroque room with the walls covered with Delft ceramics—is now home to the Historical Museum. The Historical Museum maintains objects of historical and artistic value related to Wroclaw. The collections include iconographic items, graphics, drawings and photographs. A collection illustrating the history of Wroclaw theatres is the unique one. The rich collection of the museum are displayed in the permanent exhibition “1000 Years of Wroclaw,” and also in a number of changing exhibits. Aside from these, the museum also hosts various cultural programs, scientific gatherings, and lectures.

The palace’s ground floor serves as the reception area where guests could wander around and enjoy souvenir shopping. Excited much, I decided on an impulse to buy postcards, each sold for 10 zloty each. The elevator leads to the palace’s second and third floor, where the exhibits are displayed.

The palace’s second floor opens up to the Royal Apartments, carefully restored back to their former glory. The first room is the Rococo room of King Frederick II, which showcases the king’s taste for French art and culture. The green and red rooms are dedicated to the reign of  his nephew and successor, King Frederick William III. During the last renovation, four niches with shell-bands ornaments were discovered. Among the most admirable objects displayed here include the set of Biedermeir furniture and the cylindrical faience oven.

Much history transpired in the Yellow Room. In 1813, Frederick William III sought refuge in Breslau. In the Yellow Room, the fate of the Prussia was sealed since here, the king signed his famous manifestos,”To my People,” and “To My Army.” In 1913, the iconic Centennial Hall was built in commemoration of the first manifesto. The Blue Room is also laid with objects remembering King Frederick William III, particularly relating to his army.

How to Visit the Royal Palace of Wroclaw?

The Palace is located at Kazimierza Wielkiego. It is open from 10 am until 5 pm, Tuesday until Friday, and from 10 am until 6 pm, every Saturday and Sunday. Permanent exhibitions are free of charge. For more details, visit the official website.