Bibili ka ba ng Bibingka? A Short History of the Bibingka

A bibingka stall on a Sunday market in Cuartero, Capiz.

A tour of the Sunday market presents you a line of make-shift stalls on sidewalks where the perennial Filipino favorite, the bibingka, is sold.  Despite the abundance of foreign pastries that flooded the Filipino table, bibingka and other rice-based kakanin (goodies) are still preferred by the locals. In fact, special occasions call for the bibingka as a staple, especially during All Saints’ Day and Christmas. Rice being the food for the gods in the pre-Spanish society has inspired the culinary genius of the Filipinos and  rice cakes now come in various kinds.

According to E. Arsenio Manuel, the word “bi” is Chinese for rice, thus, bibingka, biko (sticky rice cake), bijon (rice noodles) and bilo-bilo (glutinous balls). The Spanish classified the preparation of the bibingka as a pudding made of glutinous rice flour or ordinary rice made into a wet paste and, later, eggs.  Coconut milk or water is also added. Bibingka also strikes a semblance to the Indian desert bebinca, although rice is not an ingredient and it is baked every time a layer of pudding is added. What makes the the bibingka  and bebinca similar is the way they are cooked: both requires heat over and beneath while baking.

Every province or community in the Philippines has its version of the bibingka. The famous Balasan bibingka in Northern Panay Island, also sold in Jaro, Iloilo, is famous for its soft texture, creamy flavour and generous coconut meat. The usual ones sold on Sunday markets in other towns in the island are close to this minus the velvety feel. In Binakayan, Cavite, the bibingka balinghoy (cassava) is a favorite. According to Michaela Fenix, it is similar to bibingkang malagkit (glutenous rice) on a first glance, but tasting it reveals the nata de coco, kaong, and langka  (jackfruit) stuffed inside. In Negros Oriental, bibingka kabog (millet) is cooked, while in Malolos, Bulacan, bibinkang monggo (mong beans) is proffered to visitors.

A bibingka mixture poured on cake tin moulds, ready for baking on the oven. 

A batch of newly baked bibingka. 

The bibingka was not spared from further foreign influences. The Spanish, for example, topped the bibingka with white sugar, white cheese and butter and sprinkled it with Edam cheese. The Chinese, meanwhile, introduced the red egg on this Filipino staple.

The bibingka is also a Christmastime favorite sold with the puto bumbong and salabat (turmeric tea) outside the church to warm the faithful after the misa de gallo (midnight mass). It also reaches the tables on holiday gatherings. The December 1940 article of the Philippines Magazine listed bibingka as one of the main noche buena fares. "The housewives cook the suman, bibingka, cuchinta, and the puto (all native pastries) and prepare the lechon (suckling pig to be roasted on Christmas day), which is the main delicacy..."

An enterprising local wanting to open a kakanin business should never miss the bibingka on its menu. In a May 1916 article of the Filipino publication Patnubayan ng Bayan , the locals are encouraged to be bold and enterprising enough to open their own businesses. A restaurant business was cited as a feasible example and the bibingka as among the Filipino foods that the locals could be proud, which could complete with foreign offerings, like pies and cakes.

"Sa ganang akala namain, kung tayong mga Pilipino ay magbubukas ng ganyan ding uri ng mga tindahan sa nangangabanggit na mga puok at ng mga kakaning Pilipino na gaya bagaa ng bibingka, kalamay, puto-bungbong, palitaw espasol,ginatan suman, ibp. at magkaroon din naman ng mga chaa, cape, chokolate, taho at ibp. sa isang paraang malinis at di kahihiyang pasukan ng kahi't sinomang maselang, ay inaasanahan naming pakikinabangan din naman ng di kawasa. At sa ganitong paraan ay di pa mapapasa dayuhan ang ating salapi."

References:

Michaela Fenix (2014). Country Cooking: Philippine Regional Cuisines. Anvil; Isang hanap-buhay na dapat samantalahin. Patnubay ng Bayan, Taon II, Bilang 20. May 1915; E. Arsenio Manuel (1948). Chinese Elements in Tagalog Language. Filipiniana Publications;  Pilar N. Ravelo (December 1940). Xmas without Santa Claus. Philippines Magazine, volume 1, no. 1; Felice Prudente Sta. Maria (2006). The Governor-General’s Kitchen: Philippine Culinary Vignettes and Period Recipes: 1521-1935. Anvil.