Experiencing Malate, Manila’s Bohemian District

Malate lives up to its image as Manila’s bohemian district. Or so I thought. One late afternoon, I ventured out to stroll on its two-lane alleys. Life seems the same as any fast-paced streets of the metro, but wait til darkness comes and excitement would come out from its daytime slumber. 

I checked in at Malate Pensionne, a romantic accommodation that offers guests that old-world feel. I got the Eco-Air Room, which is airconditioned but doesn’t have its own comfort room and shower so I have to take the communal amenities. Rooms do not also have wifi connectivity, though. 

 Below are photos of the hotel and of the room that I got. 

A short walk away is Café Adriatico where a friend and I had coffee. The tsokolate, pan de sal and white cheese, and chef’s salad really satiate the palate. The cozy, masculine interior offers a very inviting ambiance—especially for intimate moments.

It is my habit to attend the anticipated mass every Saturday so I decided to go to nearby Malate Church. But having to that place only once, and that was two years ago, I can’t remember which road to take. Thankfully, Google map comes in handy to make things easier. The Baroque-style church is considered one of the oldest in the  country. The façade was scarred by time; its adobe walls can tell. It was actually damaged many times over, by war, fire, and earthquake. Still, it continues to stand proudly to this day despite the towering structures around it.

The church is dedicated to the Nuestra Sra. De Remedios (Our Lady of Remedy). Inside the church, at the altar, gloriously stands the statue brought by the Augustinian friars from the Andalucia in 1624. Our Lady is the patroness of childbirth. I wonder how many couples in dire want of a child have come to pay homage to the Lady, praying, pleading ceaselessly to grant their wish.

I stepped out of the Church to the catch Malate’s life at night. It was just 7pm and wind coming from Manila Bay offers a refreshing respite after an afternoon of sweltering heat. Clichés begin to converge. Office workers enjoy a leisurely stroll after a busy day at work. Lovers hold each other’s hands while sitting on the bench. They don’t want to let go. But will they ever quarrel later on? Then, there are husbands and wives and their kids admiring the dancing fountain, spewing water amidst the changing hue. Behind the fountain I noticed a team of hilot, traditional massage therapists, provide healing and relief to otherwise wornout laborers tired of the day’s back-breaking toil.

The Malate Fountain with all the romance transpiring in it makes the ideal location for a prenup photoshoot. Oh, yes, the fountain in its most glorious state makes a perfect backdrop. Planning a wedding calls for a lot of work, doesn’t it? And then, you have this. The would-be groom and bride dressing themselves at their best, even wearing uncomfortable clothes while forcing themselves to smile as if everything is all ready. Aren’t happily-ever-afters a commodity nowadays? Passersby would catch glimpse of them. I wonder how many single ladies have seen them, wondering when would the right man come? And what about guys pondering, “will I ever give my love the wedding she so desires?” Oh, I can only imagine!

It was already 8 pm so I decided to head back to my hotel. Malate is fully awake by this time. Restaurants are teeming with diners, night clubs and lounges open up but patrons don’t arrive until 10, I guess? Meanwhile, I relished looking around, the vibrant lights, and the buzz that made Malate Manila’s most colorful district.